Snorkeling Report

Atholl Island Snorkeling Excursion, Nassau, Bahamas

Ship: Norwegian Spirit (NCL)

Sailing Date: July 20, 2008

Date of Snorkel: Wednesday, July 23, 2008

Equipment Availability: we have our own which we take with us, but the crew of the catamaran on this excursion had snorkels, masks, fins and vests available which were old, but thoroughly cleaned and well maintained. 

Water Access: Ladders off the back of the Dive Boat

This is a site that we know all too well, having snorkeled here on many occasions. Refer to our Sail and Snorkel report and our Seahorse report included in this section of the website.  The area is known locally as Atholl Island or Rose Island or Thunderball Reef, and is well known world wide as the location where the aquatic sequences for the James Bond movies were filmed.  On our last visit, off the Norwegian Gem at Christmas time 2007, we were very disheartened to find a gross reduction in the fish population of this reef, and were told that local thieves have been looting the site, bagging the colorful fish for sale to aquariums and pet shops eager to purchase exotic marine species.  Consequently, we were anxious to return to the site this summer to check on whether or not the looting has stopped (it has not, although the Bahamas government is now more involved to help combat the thievery, which we applaud loudly), and to see if the fish population has been able to keep pace with the looting (which it has).

A long walk along the pier (rubber soled shoes are a must) brings one to the water taxi and boat pier across from the Straw Market where we boarded the Caribbean Queen dive boat.  Surprisingly, one of our fellow passengers was in a wheelchair—not a snorkeler, but an elderly man who wanted to accompany his grandchildren for the trip.  He would not have been able to do this if the boat were anything but a dive vessel! The boat was under the command of Captain Jason, together with three very friendly assistants.  Shade is plentiful under the boat’s canvas top, and there is a bar selling drinks and snacks (reasonably priced--for after snorkeling) and toilet facilities.  Rows of plastic deck chairs gave everyone a seat, and there were additional chairs on the bow of the boat in the strong sunshine for those who wanted to sit there.  The ride out to the site takes approximately 45 minutes, and is narrated on the way back into Nassau for those who are interested to see where Tiger Woods, Oprah Winfrey and other notables have purchased water-front Nassau homes.

Once on site, many of our fellow passengers purchased fish food (actually dry dog chow sorted into baggies) for $1 per bag.  Most were novice snorkelers and therefore did not realize that fish bite, especially when being fed artificially.  We photographed one man who was so badly bitten that he required medical attention when we returned to the ship! (Refer to our new “Do Not Do This” feature in the Snorkeling Rules section of our website). Fish Feeding created huge swarms of fish in the vicinity of the food (and equally huge swarms of novice snorkelers all pushing and kicking to get a better look), and with all the expected variety of animals: Sergeant Majors, Tang, Snappers, French Angelfish and Gray Angelfish, so there were only a few animals to be found in other areas of the site, particularly Parrotfish.  But, we were thrilled to see our first Nassau Groupers (gorgeous with their big lips and brown-white stripes) and for Peg, a special treat: our first Honeycomb Cowfish, which she followed and shot pictures of for about 10 minutes.

The water depth at this reef is approximately 15 to 25 feet, shallower in some spots, and the visibility remained excellent throughout our swim despite the number of fellow snorkelers in the water with us. Reef development is superb, with a wide variety of colorful corals that are fun to take pictures of and learn to identify.  Fortunately, the looters of Nassau have yet to figure out how to harvest the corals!

Snorkeling Grade: A