Champagne Reef Snorkel—Beach Access

Ships Excursion out of Rousseau, Dominica

Ship: Norwegian Spirit (NCL)

Sailing Date: December 21, 2006

Date of Snorkel: December 28, 2006

Equipment: We have our own which we take with us, but snorkels, masks, fins and vests were available for loan at the house before we descended to the beach.  All equipment appeared worn, but clean and well maintained.

Water Access: Pebbly Beach

WARNING: Following the taxi ride to the house where one can safely leave towels and other items before snorkeling, there is a very steep and uneven path leading down to the beach.  They are building a staircase, but it was not finished at the time of our excursion.  They are also building a wooden boardwalk for easier access along the 100 yard walk that it takes to get to the end of the beach where they insist you enter the water (so that you get the “Champagne” effect from the vents as soon as you get in).  However, the boardwalk (like the stairs) will not be finished until at least February 2007.  Rubber soled shoes are essential for walking on top of the large pebbles. Fear of twisting an ankle on the cobbled path made for slow and uneasy walking for us, especially Peg, who is not as shear-footed as Derek.  The guides, especially a tall and very striking man named J.T., are most kind to offer a strong arm or a hand to those who have trouble walking on very uneven surfaces.

We did this same excursion off the Norwegian Dawn on our winter voyage two years ago, so we knew the snorkeling would be well worth any effort involved in getting to the site, but this time the access to the water would be from the pebbled beach rather than a catamaran.  It was the crew of the catamaran that almost ruined our trip in 2004—they were unfriendly, rude and made inexcusable factual errors in guiding tours of the reef and fish.  This time we hoped for a better trip, and we were not disappointed, aside from the difficulties in getting into the water as explained above.

This is definitely one of the premier snorkeling sites in the Southern Caribbean.  Visibility was excellent and remained so for the duration of our time in the water.  The corals are well developed, incredibly varied, and beautifully colored, making for some terrific photographic backgrounds against which to shoot the vibrantly colored fish.  Fish species were even more varied and numerous than they were two years ago.  Aside from Tang, Squirrel Fish, Trumpet Fish, Butterfly Fish and Damselfish of all makes and models, and Grunts of equal variety, we also saw and photographed Smooth Trunk Fish, Trigger Fish, Soldier Fish, Rock Beauties (simply gorgeous), several Eels, and our first Sand Divers!  Angelfish are still curiously absent from this site, although we did see and photograph a few juvenile French Angels. Another special mention goes to the largest Yellow Tail Snappers we have ever seen, both easily 4 foot in length. Parrot Fish are also well represented in all varieties.  Our guide, J.T., was knowledgeable and eager to show off the corals, but had no problem with our wandering off from the group from time to time to shoot fish in shallower water.  He saved the best for last—a seahorse and a sea centipede!

Snorkeling Grade: A+

Beach Access: C—but this will improve to an A as well once the staircase and boardwalk are finished early in 2007.